By Barak Kushner
In accordance with examine in chinese language and jap, in addition to interviews with comedians, nutrition carrier execs, leisure managers, store-owners, consumers, and students of foodstuff heritage, Kushner explores the historical past of ramen and Japan's noodle tradition over the past 1,000 years.
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Additional resources for Slurp! A Social and Culinary History of Ramen - Japan's Favorite Noodle Soup : Japan's Favorite Noodle Soup
Another noodle also appeared in Japan from China during the Nara period, something called sakubei (索餅), which was essentially anything rope-like and made from wheat flour. What is striking about this name is that the second of its two Chinese characters is the kanji used in Japanese to mean mochi, or sticky rice. It is also the character used in Chinese for bing (the noodle of indeterminate shape). The characters that described noodles were thus used for a variety of foods that included dumplings, thick and thin noodles and food items that were not noodley at all, like mochi.
Before we discover how ramen was made, we need to investigate why Japanese even wanted to eat it and that story begins in ancient East Asia. ◊ To recount how flour became noodles and noodles became ramen only speaks to the story’s skeleton. The real narrative describes the cultural development, travels, people and events that shaped how the Chinese and Japanese ate. We must begin, therefore, with the origins of noodle eating and East Asian food culture – and that means tackling the myths of eating in premodern times.
Moreover, from the 1st day of the 4th month until the 13th day of the 9th month, let no one set fish-traps, closing the space. Further, let no one eat the flesh of kine [cattle], horses, dogs, monkeys, or barn-door fowls. This prohibition does not extend to other kinds of meat. 18 Tenmu may have been quite religious – he would not be the first or last regent with the desire to lead his people toward the path of moral righteousness – but he did not ban the consumption of all meat outright. Bans were placed on hunting some sources of meat during some seasons but others were obviously within the legal limits to butcher.
Slurp! A Social and Culinary History of Ramen - Japan's Favorite Noodle Soup : Japan's Favorite Noodle Soup by Barak Kushner